Time to change my perception of Time

I think the number one aspect of Ghanaian life that is the most uncomfortable and foreign to me is their perception of time. In the United States I am used to scheduling my day down to the hours, sometimes minutes and feeling accomplished at the end of the day only when I have marked all items off of my to-do list. Here in Ghana it is a bit different. They believe in a more polychronic time schedule. That is, they don't schedule their day like I'm used to, they focus more on relationships and less on to-do lists. They multi-task, they interupt, they change plans quickly, and it seems to me they let plans fall through without any mental psyche changes. They really adhere to time habitually, meaning they go with the flow and take each day as it comes. This is hard for me and it is so great that I am learning to see time this way! I think Momma Doris and her family and friends can tell it is hard for us sometimes. We like to make plans and know exactly what to expect or what is going on. Kingsley always tells me, "I think, you must relax" or he'll briefly whisper "Relax!" when I begin to get worked up about my plans for my project or my frustrations learning Twi.

I have had several interesting experiences here where I couldn't let go of my monochronic style of structuring time and the results were ... not so productive. Whereas when I allowed myself to go a little "native" and indulge in the local polychronic or Ghanaian time I was more profitable. I'll compare two of these experiences for you.

Monochronic Experience:
Preparing to come to Ghana I made plans to interview individuals, to participate and observe in dance events and to learn and teach dance in different religious and secular settings. Since I have been here I continually plan what I will do next to secure the opportunities and contacts I need to obtain these goals. I want to go meet the neighbors, introduce myself to people in town, go to the Shrine when the sign advertised the Priestess would be working. That's the way I would have handled it in America I think, but that isn't how Momma Doris, our mother and cultural broker, is teaching us things are done.

One day, walking down the main street (and only street) of Asamang a man hollered to Rebecka and I to come greet him. We greeted him and then he began telling us how he was Priest and wanted to invite us over on Sunday to see him. I thought, "Great! I'm so glad I made the initiatve to walk down town! I knew I'd meet someone who could be a potential research participant" and then he invited us to see some pictures of him and some Ghanaian political officials and reknowned Okomfo's (priests). I wanted to build rapport with my potential subject so Rebecka and I went together to see his pictures. (This -might i add - was done by way of me sliding on my buttocks down a steep slope of gravel I slipped on once I stepped off the paved road. Everyone around was chuckling. Yes, it sliced my arm and bruised me pretty good but I think the fall will catch on as a new hit dance move called, "Abruni Down." "Abruni" is what they call white people here.)

After our encounter with the priest I went home very proud. I told M. Doris about the contact I made by myself (she has made most all of our contacts thus far! and for a good reason I'll explain in my next experience.) She asked to see his contact information and number I had received from him and when she saw it she just burst up laughing! Apparently he tries to trick everyone into believing he is a priest when he is really not. He was only showing us his pictures to prove to us how "powerful" he was, when he wasn't. But we had no idea! M. Doris and the others got a kick out of our discovery, but I feel foolish. Monochronic initiative is just not the way to make real friends around here.


Polychronic Experience:
It seems the best experiences I have had here in Ghana occured when I wasn't expecting them. When I exercised patience and busied myself with building relationships and relaxing rather than planning or preparing contrived solutions to what I perceived to be problems (i.e. not having interviews set up or opportunities for dance lessons set up yet) amazing opportunities seem to fall into my lap.

For example, two Saturdays ago M. Doris called up a man she knew owned a large shring in Asamang. She invited him to the house and he came and met all three of us and M. Doris. She helped us explain what our purpose in Ghana was and why would like to visit the shrine. He was very happy to help and said he would even come pick us up personally in his car to bring us to the shrine the following Sunday around 3 pm. When 4 pm rolled around on Sunday we still had not been picked up. I was sad because I really wanted to go, it being the Awkwasidae festival that only occurs every 40-42 days to celebrate the local ancestral chiefs. But, this was a typical example of Ghanaian time, either an hour late, or a no-show. But I wanted to go check it out still so we walked to the Shrine. It didn't seem anything was going on for the longest time when we got there. We did a lot of sitting around but I enjoyed the people watching and getting comfortable in the space of the shrine. It was like a big courtyard with 4 walls and an open ceiling. Nothing seemed to happen for the longest time but eventually the priest came and greeted us with the shrine owner we had already been introduced to and eventually in the evening I got to dance with the priest. It was an amazing experience I will post in my next post. But the point of my story is that because I exercised some polychronic time, I was properly introduced prior to the event and I relaxed and waited for the action to happen, I was the witness to an amazing traditional ritual and the recipient of much knowledge that supported my research.

Thus I have found that my research will be most successful when I join the Ghanaians in their polychronic time. But I think another point made in these experiences it the importance of a good cultural broker. M. Doris is so amazing! She invites important village officials to the house to meet us and brings over many contacts for us to be introduced to so that we can build the appropriate rapport we need to ask favors of them for our research. She knows who is a safe contact, who is a worthwhile contact. She knows the traditions and the order in which things should be done. Introductions are so important here. In fact this Friday she has set up plans for us to meet with all the Village Chiefs and Elders as a gathering called a Durbur. At this gathering the chiefs will introduce us to the village and let the people know how they expect them to treat us with respect and help us and keep us safe during our stay here. A cultural broker is so important.

And one more thing. I have to admit I can't do the polychronic thing completely. I don't believe I need to go completely native in this respect. I still have a part of me that needs to have a to-do list and some structure to feel accomplished, but my solution has been to write down 11 things every night that I accomplished that day. It has been such a blessing to redefine what an accomplisment is. Napping for instance is an accomplishment that frequents my list. At home this would have been a big no-no, but here I feel it is an accomplishment because I'm taking care of myself. Polychronic time has helped me redefine success to be more realistic for myself. Who thought just even staying home all day could teach me so much!

Arrival to Ghana

Here's my first update! I arrived in Ghana on September 6th in the evening. I stayed in Accra with Rebekah and our new friend Cynthia in Accra for several days to transition and I will admit this was very very very hard, but Cynthia and her friends were so loving and delightful! We also got to visit the Accra Temple and that was something very familiar to me that helped me feel secure in this new foreign land.

Then we took a V.I.P bus to Kumasi and caught a taxi (luckily with a driver who was from our destination) to Asamang to meet Mamma Doris! and Mamma Doris is the most darling and faithful women I have ever met. We are under very good protection and care at her home.

The number one thing I feel I have had to think about and manage since I've been here is Culture Shock. This has come mostly from my inability to speak and communicate in the Twi language. It makes me very anxious to think that I could possible enter a situation where I could not communicate. My imagination is a little wild. But! I had an experience that taught me that there is another language I am very comfortable with that the Ghanaians speak that is not English and that is body language!

Having a body is a universal on this earth and I am so glad! I feel that I can easily fall in love with the Ghanaians because I can communicate through dance, movement and the body. The other night a women came to visit with her three children and I spent a good hour stretching with them. They would just mirror my movements! (They would even mimic the sighs and "ah's" that came along with my stretching, so cute!) They even taught me the song that all the little children sing as they flock around us down the street..."Dance like a butterfly, Dance like a butterfly!" haha this made doing the butterfly stretch very meaningful and connective for us.

With culture shock I would like to share one insight that has really helped me cope with the stresses of my first real international culture experience. I have to repeat in my mind the advice my mother gave me when I left. "Don't spend even one moment wishing you weren't there, it's only a short time so make it worth it!"

One of the first mornings I woke up thinking, "How can I do this? Why am I here? What was I thinking? I didn't sign up for this! Especially these emotions!" But then I decided to jump off the hamster wheel of analyzing my emotions and find something that made me happy. And many of you may not be surprised to know that working at the toilet in the guest house and finally getting it to flush was the think that did the trick. Once I got it to flush after about 20 tries I felt so HAPPY!!! IT was the best feeling to master the toilet. So now if ever I feel the effects of culture shock, I just find a toilet to flush (which can be a challenge to find and makes it an accomplishment in itself to find one). It's all about focusing on what makes you happy!